A Turnaround Twelve Hours in Chicago

At 4:30 am the train pulled into Chicago’s Union Station, fourteen hours late, meaning an unexpected and weary day in Chicago until the next train east at 9:30 pm. Not surprisingly, my traveling companion and I were exhausted and uncomfortable. We had been assured for more than ten hours that Amtrak would put us up in a hotel and rebook our travel home. Being hyper vigilant about bed bugs I always check the online Bed Bug Registry prior to booking accommodations. Blurry-eyed (without enough reading glasses to read everything on my cell-phone screen), very hungry (I ran out of food around seventeen hours prior), and grumpy to my core, I scanned bed bug reports and, sure enough, the hotel we had been comped had fourteen bug alerts. I start Googling the hotels that showed zero reports and they were all fully booked.

My companion was equally exhausted, but less concerned about bed bug contamination than I was so we were at odds. Finally I proclaimed that she could go to the hotel without any luggage (she didn't), but that I was going to stay at the station and wait the forty-five minutes until the lounge for sleeping-car travelers opened up. I felt like I was on a camping trip where it starts pouring, the tent leaks, and you’re having car problems….you are so uncomfortable you just want it to all go away (especially since the expectation was that we would be spending a whole night (instead of a partial morning) in a comfortable hotel bed (sans bugs). Expectations mixed with no sleep and low-blood-sugar made for tender and trigger-cranky emotions.

My companion decided to fly home due to work commitments (our new scheduled arrival home was a minimum 24-hours later than originally planned.) My day had grim prospects. I thought likely I would spend it curled up on a stained, lumpy love seat in the windowless lounge room of Union Station, dozing on and off, hopefully not visibly drooling. I didn’t have motivation for much else, but the love seat was less than appealing, so I mustered my last shred of energy and headed off to Whole Foods, not far from the train station. This was slow-shopping in the extreme. My daze was reminiscent of how I used to feel after working a twelve-hour shift all night at the hospital. I was working hard at concentrating and was slightly aware that I looked like someone on drugs or newly homeless (after three and a half days on a train from California I was doing a good imitation). Then I slowed down even more when I realized I had nothing to do for twelve hours. S-l-o-w shopping. If my companion had stayed she would have killed me.

After stocking for two more full days of travel, I settled into the cafe area and ate, which fortified me enough to think about spending my day outside of the station.

I knew I would be a horrible companion in that I needed every ounce of reserve to function and couldn’t expend any on niceties or social interaction, so I did not contact the handful of people I know in Chicago. It was sunny, with a slight breeze and perfect temp, so off I went to explore. Since not all my cylinders were firing, I took a water taxi to Navy Pier, where I boarded a larger boat for an architectural tour of Chicago. This was the perfect solution for the worn-down traveler: I was sitting outside, soaking in the sun, but learning things about the “windy” city: the bridge designs are from Paris, the Sears Tower (now the Willis Tower) can sway three feet in any direction at upper stories; and, the Haymarket Riot, a tragic event in labor history resulting in the hanging of union organizers, took place in downtown Chicago.

After the informative and, for me, therapeutic boat ride, I wandered around the shoreline and city beach, then made my way towards a day spa where I had booked a massage. Exploring the neighborhoods on the way, I stumbled onto Local Root, a local-foods restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating in the Streeterville neighborhood of the city. I had plenty of time before my appointment, so I savored a full, fresh meal for the first time in four days. While vegetarians will find a number of things to eat, the menu is heavy on meat and fish. My salad of local greens and pickled onions was delicious (the pickled onions were especially good) and went well with my perfectly cooked grass-fed burger. Chicago’s tap water tastes heavily of chlorine and has other known contaminants in it, so I would recommend ordering bottled water (although I would rather see restaurants doing their own in-house filtration of tap water).

Next stop on my grim-day-turned-fabulous, was the Allyu Spa located along the Riverwalk in the River North area. The large, airy, Buddhist-inspired day spa offers a range of massage and spa therapies as well as a far-infrared sauna. There is a meditation/relaxation sanctuary where you can wait before and after your therapy, as well as outside seating along the river. From start to finish Allyu was what this weary traveler needed.

The sad love seat where I might have spent my day was still at the train station when I returned, waiting for some other desperate traveler. My message to them—you have options.



Full Disclosure: no businesses listed here had any knowledge that I would be writing about them and provided zero comp benefits.

Driving Green in Paris and More

A cross between Zipcar and the successful citywide bike rental programs like Velib in Paris and Citybike in NYC, Autolib lets drivers rent electric cars at stations dotted around Paris. The brainchild of French billionaire, Vincent Bolloré, the pay-by-the-hour Autolib uses 100% electric “Bluecars". Drivers sign up for annual memberships and then pay by the 30-minute use.

Hugely successful in Paris, Bolloré has expanded the service into Lyon and Bordeaux and has announced that a program using red cars will soon be available in London.

Stateside there are whispers that the program may come to Los Angeles and Indianapolis—stay tuned!


* Photos by Mariordo (Mario Roberto Durán Ortiz)

The BEST Gluten-Free Pizza—Hiding in Edinburgh

This writer found the best gluten-free he has had in a place that is not thought of when it comes to fine pizzas: Edinburgh, Scotland. However, this is exactly where it was found in the La Favorita Pizzeria and Restaurant on 325 Leith Walk, Edinburgh.

If a really good pizza is one of those foods that is missed or craved above all else while maintaining a gluten-free diet, then look no further than to this bustling Italian eatery and its delicious gluten-free pizzas. The majority of the meals served at La Favorita have a gluten-free option as well as on all of the pizzas. The only thing that is lacking is the ability to settle into your pizza with the company of a fine gluten-free brew, but they do offer a cider and of course a wide range of wines that should keep any appreciator of alcohol happy.

For gluten-free beers, check out Green's, a dedicated producer of gluten- and wheat-free beer in the UK.

Guest blog post by Kit Norton

Gluten-Free Delights in the Shadow of Budapest's House of Terror

Budapest’s House of Terror sits on Andrassy utja (Budapest, Andrássy út 60, 1062 Hungary), and no matter where the sun is in the sky, it throws a long shadow. After visiting the building that has represented fear, secrecy, and pain for most of the twentieth century, do not be surprised if you hear your stomach growl and feel a gnawing hunger.

For those who are following a gluten-free diet (and for those who are not) you are in luck. Across the street at Andrassy ut 57 (Budapest, Andrássy út 57, 1062 Hungary) you will find the best gluten-free bakery in Budapest. Corso Cafe will not be found on any travel forums online, and even a Google search for it will not turn up satisfactory results. It is a small cafe, serving assorted teas and coffees along with many wheat pastries on display. However, you need only ask the man or the woman that run the bakery for “glutenmentes” and a bin will be brought out for you to peruse the selection.

The woman, who is also the baker, speaks English making it easier to ascertain which breads are best and what is in each goody. She bakes chocolate and coconut gluten-free spiral pastries, nine gluten-free baguettes, and whole loaves of both white artisan bread and a whole-grain version. All of these are divine. I would suggest making several stops back at the bakery over your visit to Budapest because it is very unlikely that one trip will satiate the thirst for freshly baked gluten-free treats. Be warned that getting there early in the day will not guarantee that gluten-free bread is available as she bakes a certain amount each day and no more. She also starts the gluten-free baking process later in the day than the regular breads, and with this in mind getting there around 2 PM (1400) is usually a good time to pick up bread. Enjoy!


Guest blog post by Kit Norton

Ultimate Gluten-Free in Prague

The belief held by some in the United States that the Gluten-Free diet is a mere fad has not stopped this nutrition-alternative from spreading in Eastern Europe. As such, practicing “anti-glutenists” need not worry if they are visiting the picturesque city of Prague.

A would-be traveler to Prague cannot go without sampling the Czech beer, and so the first, and most important, gluten-free product that it available is Zatec Celia. This gluten-free beer is available for purchase in Galerie Piva at Lázeňská 15, Prague and nowhere else in the area. However, if you are in the mood to sit down and enjoy your gluten-free Czech pilsner along with traditional gluten-free Czech cuisine, you must visit Svejk Restaurant U Karla at Kremencova 7, Prague 1. This restaurant was the gastronomical highlight of this writer’s trip to Prague, and any traveler, gluten-free or not, should visit this establishment. Svejk U Karla is open daily 11am-12am and offers a complete mouthwatering gluten-free menu. For $15 or (299 Czech Koruna) you can order freshly baked gluten-free bread, horseradish sauce, gluten-free beer, and four of the largest and best tasting pork ribs.

After being fortified with this hearty meal you are welcome to continue to walk the streets of Prague, exploring at your leisure, but do not be surprised if your thoughts, and perhaps your feet, bring you back to Kremencova 7 searching for another dish.

Guest blog post by Kit Norton

Reykjavik Personal Thermal Plunge Advice

If you find yourself desiring a plunge into the icy lagoon waters that surround Reykjavik, then Nautholsvik Geothermal beach is the place for you.

Equipped with an outdoor geothermal bath, views of the small houses that populate the coast, a steam room, and the ocean water of the lagoon itself, this is a bathing experience that shows the essence of the people of Iceland.

Free admittance in the summer and a small charge of 500 ISK (just over $4) in the winter and spring makes this a very affordable plunge into the healing waters—both cooling and warming.

It is common to see groups of local men and women jump into the frigid waters of the lagoon (temperatures are around 12°- 13°C in the summer and the average temperature is 4°- 6°C in the winter) and swim for 15-20 minutes. For none but the hearty is this recommended, as the ocean waters of Iceland make Maine’s water look temperate. These locals swear that they are the healthiest people on earth because of their daily, icy dip followed by the relaxing and mineral-rich, warmth of the geothermal pools.

You can take public transport to Nautholsvik Geothermal beach, but I would suggest that the walking path along the ocean is the better way to reach your destination if you do not mind a one to two hour stretch of the legs. Make your way towards the Vikin Maritime Museum but continue straight on away from the marina and you will soon hit the walking and biking path that runs parallel to the water.

For those seeking the magic blue thermal waters, don't miss the iconic, but pricier (35-40 Euro) Blue Lagoon, a bus ride away from downtown Reykjavik.

Guest blog post by Kit Norton

The Fate of French Baguettes

Anyone who has traveled in France knows how ubiquitous baguettes are—tucked under arms, propped in bicycle baskets, and sold in just about every shop whether a bakery or not.  But what many may not realize is that all baguettes are not the same. Most of the baguettes sold now have evolved as a form of fast-food, with additives and a quick preparation process. Fortunately there are those that cherish the old-style, slow-fermentation technique that gives an authentic baguette its texture and taste.

According to the New York Times, "...in 1993, the government came to the rescue with a decree that created a special designation: “the bread of French tradition.” That bread has to be made exclusively with flour, salt, water and leavening — no additives. The “tradition,” as it is called, is more expensive than the ordinary baguette, which uses additives, a fast-rising process and mechanization, and accounts for about 75 percent of the country’s bread sales."

Anyone who has eaten traditional baguettes knows that the extra money is ever so worth it. According to French-bread expert, Steve Kaplan, you "need to celebrate breads that make your taste buds dance."  

Travelers to Paris who want to taste "tradition" breads can explore Good-Bread Trails in Paris—

Bon appétit!!

Surprising—Gluten-Free in Wells/Ogunquit Maine

For reasons defying explanation, the Wells/Ogunquit area of Maine with its long, wide flat beaches, is onto the gluten-free scene. A number of eateries offer gluten-free options including, thankfully, our favorite lobster-roll haunt, Jake’s Seafood on the corner of Route 1 and Bourne Road—the road to Moody Beach. At Jake’s you can get a lobster roll with or without mayonnaise—my preference with butter or even naked on a wheat or gluten-free bun. This transformed our trip as two out of three of us need to eat gluten-free, so we could all happily enjoy our generously portioned lobster rolls.

Wild Blueberry conjures waffles and pancakes, but The Wild Blueberry Restaurant in Ogunquit is a fine dining establishment with a casual air serving fresh, local fish and other foods. The local Lemon Sole was delicious as was the Maine-caught Haddock, but the Lobster and Avocado starter was sublime.

Roost Cafe and Bistro offers a wide range of gluten-free dishes including local fish and chips made with non-gluten-breading.

Happy gluten-free eating on the southern Maine coast!

Health Food Stores on the Cape

For those wanting to do their own food prep and needing supplies beyond the farmer's markets now held regularly around the Cape, there are a few health food stores dotted from upper to lower Cape.

Orleans Whole Food Store—no relation to the Whole Foods chain—has been around for almost forty years. Packed tight with products leaving narrow one-lane aisles. the store has most of what you need with the exception that its produce selection is slim and not particularly local (this is one of the stores where the Mexican blueberries were sold).

Conveniently located next door to Orleans Whole Food, Main Street Wine and Gourmet is an airy light store offering a large selection of wines including a varied and unusual organic selection, as well as gourmet foods from around the world. 42 Main Street, Orleans, 508-255-1112

In Provincetown, 141 Bradford Naturals has two locations. It offers not only natural and organic groceries, but also vegetarian and vegan take-out dishes, a range of wheat-free, gluten-free, dairy-free and sugar-free foods. JJ Gonson, chef and owner of Cuisine Locale in Cambridge says of 141 Bradford's guacamole, “Dude, I don't care HOW good your guac is. This is better.”

All the stores are open seven days a week—check the Web sites for seasonal hours.

Local and Natural Restaurants on the Cape

Looking for groovy eats on the Cape? Like farmstands and health food stores, there are great places to eat sprinkled throughout Cape Cod.

The Juice in Wellfleet offers up sandwiches, salads, pizzas, real-fruit smoothies and fresh juices. The bestselling piña-colada-like Maui Wowie was the favorite in my group, but we sampled all the options and gave thumbs-up to all of them. The Juice is in downtown Wellfleet, 6 Commercial Street, Wellfleet, MA 508-349-0535. From May to September it is open daily for eating in or take-out lunch 11:30 am to 3:00 pm; Dinner 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm.

Other local food restaurants featuring, local, organic and natural menus include Local 186, Harvest Gallery Wine Bar, Pizza Barbone, and FarmMaid Foods Cafe. You can find out about others through the beautiful print and online magazine Edible Cape Cod. Other sources of good eats: www.BuyFreshBuyLocalCapeCod.org for lists of  restaurants offering and supporting locally grown food.

Most restaurants worth eating at serve locally caught fish and of course oysters and clams! Always ask where the fish is from—you will be surprised by some of the places it comes from like Iceland and South America.

Bon appetit!

Blueberry Hunting on Cape Cod

While Vacationing on the Cape I was on the hunt for local blueberries since at home in Vermont it was blueberry season. I purposefully had not brought any with me assuming they would be plentiful on the Cape. I was mistaken—what was readily available were organic berries from Mexico (!) or conventionally grown from New Jersey.

I was almost brought to fist-a-cuffs over my muttering at a produce stand about conventional agriculture in New Jersey. A woman who could have been an extra on the Sopranos said, “Are you saying something against New Jersey?” in response to my private frustrated grumblings to my friend. “You better not be saying anything about New Jersey while I’m here.” Wow. I held my New Yorker tongue like a good Vermonter.

After a failed farmer’s market and no luck at the local stores I got a tip that the Wellfleet Farmer’s Market, held from 8 am to 12 noon on Wednesdays, is where I would find my berries. I was properly advised to arrive no later than 8 on said morning because the berries sell out within the first thirty minutes. Really? I smell a business opportunity in berries. Not wanting to take any chances I arrived about ten minutes before the opening bell to find a small line waiting for the berry booth. Redberry Farm did not disappoint. A solar powered, sustainable farm on five acres in Eastham, Redberry sells at the Orleans and Wellfleet Farmer's Markets. I bought a few containers to tide me over for the week and felt sorry for the folks not in-the-know who would show up midway trough the market only to find no berries.The Wellfleet Farmer’s Market, held behind Preservation Hall at 335 Main Street, also has beautiful vegetables, cheeses, wine, crafts and more.

Cape Cod Organic Options

Heading to the Cape for vacation? Live there year round? Either way locally grown produce, especially certified organic, can be hard to find unless you know where to look.

To find Pleasant Lake Farm, the first farm on the Cape to be certified organic, requires the use of a good map, GPS, Google Maps or an excellent navigator in your passenger seat. The farm, located in Harwich is very much off the beaten path. Once there you can buy a variety of certified organic vegetables, beef, pork, eggs and local jams. The little farm stand is self-service. The meat is kept in freezers in another building down the road, so if you’re looking for meat, it is best to call ahead to make sure someone can assist you. Likely you will be greeted by a pack of dogs—fortunately friendly. On the sandy soil. Pleasant Lake grows snap peas, beans, squash, lettuce, field greens, cutting flowers, root crops and more.
 Pleasant Lake Farm, 2 Birch Drive, Harwich, MA 02645, 774-722-2319

For other organic and local farms explore www.BuyFreshBuyLocalCapeCod.org for lists of growers, markets and restaurants offering and supporting locally grown food. This directory is great for locating the farmstands throughout the Cape and finding where the local food is hiding.

Locally caught fish is sold at most fish markets and is usually marked, but make sure to ask. In late July the local catches are pollack, haddock, sole and flounder—all delicious and like nothing you find far from the ocean. Oysters and clams—local of course—are everywhere.

Fast-Organic in Paris at Boco

 We first ate at Boco two years ago when we were in Paris and loved it. It was on the short-list of places to try again on this trip and I’m pleased to report it didn’t disappoint!

There are so many things I like about Boco—their commitment to sustainability and organic food (called bio in France) top the list. But a close second is the adorable glass containers they serve their food in (which also support their eco efforts by being washed and reused). After our last trip I bought similar containers to use at home for packing my lunch.

Boco meets the need for fresh, healthy, bio food available quickly. The dishes are prepared in advance and artistically displayed in the front portion of the store. 100% of ingredients are bio, and options include vegetarian, gluten-free, and dairy-free. There are main dishes (we had curried lentils and asparagus pasta), sides (we had carrots and parsnips roasted with cumin), and desserts (we didn’t have one this time, but enjoyed an apple crisp last time we were here). You use a basket to select your items and bring them to the counter to check-out and have your food warmed-up.They also make coffee, tea, juices, and hot sandwiches at the counter if you’d like.

There is plenty of seating to eat at Boco, as well as options to take the food to-go. At the back of the restaurant is a wall of artisan goods for sale (wine, jams, chocolate etc.). 

I had the pleasure of meeting one of the owners while we were eating at Boco. Frederique, was circulating the restaurant with a mother-hen quality—greeting guests and making sure everything was running smoothly. She was lovely and very proud of Boco’s offerings to the Parisian community.

We ate at the Opera Boco location (3 Rue Danielle Casanova), but there are three locations in

downtown Paris, each with its own hours. The Opera location is open Monday to Saturday from 11:00 am to 10:00 pm. I strongly recommend making time to eat here on your next trip.

Enjoy!
Z
To read more about my culinary adventures, please visit www.onebeet.com

Gallete Café for Gluten-free Crepes

I am thrilled to welcome Z from One Beet, a blog about nutrition, good food and recipes, as a guest blogger here on Traveling Naturally and the Green Earth Guides, as she shares her great eco and organic finds while traveling through Europe this year. This month she is in France and offers some great places in Paris to eat.

    It was a rainy afternoon in Paris and we were hungry. We had spent the past few hours walking through the Louvre and needed an energy boost before tackling the Musee d’Orsay.  We wandered through the streets on the Left Bank near the d’Orsay and came across Galette Café on the corner. We were pulled in immediately by the funky exterior and were sold when we read the menu of gluten-free, organic buckwheat galletes.  
    The food was delicious! We shared two savory buckwheat galletes—one topped with a salad, fresh goat cheese, baked apples, and walnuts. The second topped with an artisanal sausage, onion confit, and tomato compote. Gallete Café prides itself on their traditional menu and commitment to local and organic artisans.  There is a nice page on their website that outlines some of the producers they work with (including the buckwheat flour miller). The menu is simple, yet tasty – it highlights excellent ingredients and innovative combinations.
    So what’s the big deal about buckwheat? Buckwheat is actually a pseudo cereal (rather than a grain), so it is gluten-free and perfect for people watching their wheat intake.  In addition, it’s high in fiber, contains all eight essential amino acids, and is a good source of manganese, magnesium, copper, and zinc.
    Not only did we enjoy the food at Gallete Café, we also appreciated the ambiance. The small café is well designed with a clean, trendy aesthetic. The staff was also very friendly and spoke excellent English (they had menus available in a range of languages at the host stand).
    This place is a worth a trip to 2 Rue du l’Universite for a delicious lunch or dinner. Buckwheat galettes run between 7.50 and 12.80 € and the café also serves organic wheat crepes, oysters from Brittany, a range of beverages and artisanal ice cream. Don’t go looking for breakfast, the Gallette Café opens at 12 noon Tuesday through Sunday. Open until 10:30 pm  Wednesday through Saturday, the café closes at 5:00 pm on Tuesday and Sunday.
Enjoy!
Z
To read more about my culinary adventures, please visit www.onebeet.com

A Green Delight in Umbria

Letizia and Ruurd live what is a dream for many. They run an agriturismo B&B in Umbria, Italy housed in stone buildings, some dating back as far as 500 years old. They have lovingly renovated the buildings and grounds, operating as a B&B for almost ten years. More importantly to those of us who are olive oil fanatics, Letizia and Ruurd have restored the olive grove, planting 250 olive trees so they can make their own divine olive oil.

Committed to treading lightly on the earth, Alla Madonna runs solely on solar electricity with hot water and heat coming from solar thermal panels and a wood furnace. Alla Madonna is decorated with new and vintage natural fibers. Eco-friendly cleaning products are used, the gardens and olive groves are organic, and the food served guests as well as what s used in the cooking classes are locally produced. Google, the truffle-hunting dog at Alla Madonna die Piatto sniffs out the sneakiest truffles.

Guests can choose from six comfortable rooms with private baths. From March to November cooking classes are offered  two times a week. Room rates range from 85 to 105 euros per night for a double room. Please note: Alla Madonna is closed from mid-November to mid-March and for one week in July.

Alla Madonna is about 5 miles from Assisi. If you want to vicariously enjoy the fruits of Letizia's cooking, explore her blog at: http://madonnadelpiatto.com and create scrumptious meals from her simple yet exquisite recipes.

Azienda Agraria Alla Madonna del Piatto
Via Petrata 37, Pieve San Nicolo’
06081 Assisi (PG), Umbria, Italy
http://incampagna.com

Natural Jet Lag Tips

Having just gone on one of my shorter trips to Europe, I found I was hit harder than usual by jet lag. Some of this I chalk up to the simultaneous affects of menopause (groan), but nonetheless, it took me more than four days to adjust to the six-hour time difference.

A couple of things I wish I'd known about before I went off on my trip—the easy-to-use Apps by Soul Lightening Acupressure, one specifically for jet lag and the other for insomnia. The Apps, which cost $2.99 each, illustrate acupressure points and the appropriate times to apply them.

For those unfamiliar with acupressure, it is based on the same principles as acupuncture, but it is done without needles—fingers, or other tools are used to work the points on the body. Acupuncture is a healing art that has been used in China for thousands of years. Qi/chi (energy) flows through specific pathways in the body called meridians. Along each meridian are points at which the Qi is most accessible for stimulation. Thin, sterile needles are inserted at specific points is to move and balance the Qi, thus restoring health and harmony in the body.

While I have used a variety of homeopathic remedies for jet lag in the past, the most effective remedy I have tried I just learned about on my return home this trip. Biotics brand Cytozyme THY, a thymus supplement* (vegetarians and vegans take note—this is made from cows) chewed in the morning and evening provided me with solid, sound, uninterrupted sleep—ahhhhh relief!


Disclaimer required by the FDA:
*The information provided here is for educational purposes only. This information is NOT medical advice, and has not been approved or evaluated by the Food & Drug Administration. Please consult your health care practitioner for more information.