Driving Green in Paris and More

A cross between Zipcar and the successful citywide bike rental programs like Velib in Paris and Citybike in NYC, Autolib lets drivers rent electric cars at stations dotted around Paris. The brainchild of French billionaire, Vincent Bolloré, the pay-by-the-hour Autolib uses 100% electric “Bluecars". Drivers sign up for annual memberships and then pay by the 30-minute use.

Hugely successful in Paris, Bolloré has expanded the service into Lyon and Bordeaux and has announced that a program using red cars will soon be available in London.

Stateside there are whispers that the program may come to Los Angeles and Indianapolis—stay tuned!


* Photos by Mariordo (Mario Roberto Durán Ortiz)

The Fate of French Baguettes

Anyone who has traveled in France knows how ubiquitous baguettes are—tucked under arms, propped in bicycle baskets, and sold in just about every shop whether a bakery or not.  But what many may not realize is that all baguettes are not the same. Most of the baguettes sold now have evolved as a form of fast-food, with additives and a quick preparation process. Fortunately there are those that cherish the old-style, slow-fermentation technique that gives an authentic baguette its texture and taste.

According to the New York Times, "...in 1993, the government came to the rescue with a decree that created a special designation: “the bread of French tradition.” That bread has to be made exclusively with flour, salt, water and leavening — no additives. The “tradition,” as it is called, is more expensive than the ordinary baguette, which uses additives, a fast-rising process and mechanization, and accounts for about 75 percent of the country’s bread sales."

Anyone who has eaten traditional baguettes knows that the extra money is ever so worth it. According to French-bread expert, Steve Kaplan, you "need to celebrate breads that make your taste buds dance."  

Travelers to Paris who want to taste "tradition" breads can explore Good-Bread Trails in Paris—

Bon appétit!!

Fast-Organic in Paris at Boco

 We first ate at Boco two years ago when we were in Paris and loved it. It was on the short-list of places to try again on this trip and I’m pleased to report it didn’t disappoint!

There are so many things I like about Boco—their commitment to sustainability and organic food (called bio in France) top the list. But a close second is the adorable glass containers they serve their food in (which also support their eco efforts by being washed and reused). After our last trip I bought similar containers to use at home for packing my lunch.

Boco meets the need for fresh, healthy, bio food available quickly. The dishes are prepared in advance and artistically displayed in the front portion of the store. 100% of ingredients are bio, and options include vegetarian, gluten-free, and dairy-free. There are main dishes (we had curried lentils and asparagus pasta), sides (we had carrots and parsnips roasted with cumin), and desserts (we didn’t have one this time, but enjoyed an apple crisp last time we were here). You use a basket to select your items and bring them to the counter to check-out and have your food warmed-up.They also make coffee, tea, juices, and hot sandwiches at the counter if you’d like.

There is plenty of seating to eat at Boco, as well as options to take the food to-go. At the back of the restaurant is a wall of artisan goods for sale (wine, jams, chocolate etc.). 

I had the pleasure of meeting one of the owners while we were eating at Boco. Frederique, was circulating the restaurant with a mother-hen quality—greeting guests and making sure everything was running smoothly. She was lovely and very proud of Boco’s offerings to the Parisian community.

We ate at the Opera Boco location (3 Rue Danielle Casanova), but there are three locations in

downtown Paris, each with its own hours. The Opera location is open Monday to Saturday from 11:00 am to 10:00 pm. I strongly recommend making time to eat here on your next trip.

Enjoy!
Z
To read more about my culinary adventures, please visit www.onebeet.com

Gallete Café for Gluten-free Crepes

I am thrilled to welcome Z from One Beet, a blog about nutrition, good food and recipes, as a guest blogger here on Traveling Naturally and the Green Earth Guides, as she shares her great eco and organic finds while traveling through Europe this year. This month she is in France and offers some great places in Paris to eat.

    It was a rainy afternoon in Paris and we were hungry. We had spent the past few hours walking through the Louvre and needed an energy boost before tackling the Musee d’Orsay.  We wandered through the streets on the Left Bank near the d’Orsay and came across Galette Café on the corner. We were pulled in immediately by the funky exterior and were sold when we read the menu of gluten-free, organic buckwheat galletes.  
    The food was delicious! We shared two savory buckwheat galletes—one topped with a salad, fresh goat cheese, baked apples, and walnuts. The second topped with an artisanal sausage, onion confit, and tomato compote. Gallete Café prides itself on their traditional menu and commitment to local and organic artisans.  There is a nice page on their website that outlines some of the producers they work with (including the buckwheat flour miller). The menu is simple, yet tasty – it highlights excellent ingredients and innovative combinations.
    So what’s the big deal about buckwheat? Buckwheat is actually a pseudo cereal (rather than a grain), so it is gluten-free and perfect for people watching their wheat intake.  In addition, it’s high in fiber, contains all eight essential amino acids, and is a good source of manganese, magnesium, copper, and zinc.
    Not only did we enjoy the food at Gallete Café, we also appreciated the ambiance. The small café is well designed with a clean, trendy aesthetic. The staff was also very friendly and spoke excellent English (they had menus available in a range of languages at the host stand).
    This place is a worth a trip to 2 Rue du l’Universite for a delicious lunch or dinner. Buckwheat galettes run between 7.50 and 12.80 € and the café also serves organic wheat crepes, oysters from Brittany, a range of beverages and artisanal ice cream. Don’t go looking for breakfast, the Gallette Café opens at 12 noon Tuesday through Sunday. Open until 10:30 pm  Wednesday through Saturday, the café closes at 5:00 pm on Tuesday and Sunday.
Enjoy!
Z
To read more about my culinary adventures, please visit www.onebeet.com

BYO(E)B to Paris: That is Bring Your Own Empty! Bottle to Use at the New Water Fountain in Paris

In an effort to curb the obscene amount of plastic bottles generated from bottled water consumption, Paris’s public water company, Eau de Paris, has introduced an experimental water fountain gushing with the bubbly - not champagne - but sparkling water, or “Eau gazeuse”. Before you get too excited dreaming about free-flowing Perrier, note that this is public tap water with carbon dioxide added. Fair enough, as that is how most seltzers and club sodas are made. The Paris water supply comes from both groundwater and river sources which are then filtered and processed producing clean water.

This is wonderful for the environment as the French are known for their high consumption of  bottled water. Part of Paris’s Climate Action Plan drafted in 2007 is to increase tap water use and decrease bottled water use. Critical, as the water utility estimates that somewhere in the order of 500,000 cubic feet of plastic water bottle trash is generated in the city every year.

Paris has over 950 public water fountains around the city. The new fizzy water fountain is in the Reuilly Garden (Jardin de Reuilly) in the 12th arrondissement out by the Bercy,  Austerlitz and Lyon train stations. Situated on the site of a former freight train station, the park is now home to a variety of plants including roses, bamboo, heathers, as well as playing fields, a central lawn covering over an acre, and a reflecting pool. The new water fountains have six taps offering both bubbly and plain water - avec and sans gaz.

If you find yourself in Paris, walk or catch a Metro to the Jardin de Reuilly to sample the new fountains, but make sure you bring your own bottle, or two. The closest metro stops to Jardin de Reuilly are Montgallet and Dugommier.

Public Toilets in Madrid, A Rare Breed

A heads up for those traveling to the capital of Spain and hoping for public toilets. While public toilets are fairly plentiful in Paris and other European cities, Madrid seems to fall short even compared with its somewhat rival city, Barcelona. As the Spanish newspaper El Pais reported, there are only thirty-seven supposed public toilets around the city and of these at least eleven are said to be out of order- some for as long as four years!! This brings the number down to twenty-five public toilets in a city of over forty million people not counting the tourists.

It appears that these concrete structures are valued more for the advertising space they provide than the functional purpose of allowing people to relieve themselves. So when in Madrid, best to consider cafes or the train stations as your best source of toilets, and make use of the museum facilities while there. If you do find a working public toilet make sure you have the necessary .30¢ euros for entry. For more on public toilets while traveling in Europe see Toilets and Traveling.

Brilliant Idea! Sewing Machine Cafe in Paris

A new cafe in Paris with a definitely new twist- renting sewing machines by the hour. How brilliant and innovative! I for one would make good use of this as I always seem to have trouble with my sewing machine that gets dragged out of the closet every few months - or years in some cases. Do I remember how to thread the bobbin? What is the little trick I need to remember so the thread doesn't break? Is it at the correct tension? The list goes on. And there are many things I would sew if I could scoot off to the Sweatshop Cafe and not have to fret over my own machine that probably needs oiling, cleaning and other things I do not want to deal with for a one hour sew.

So you lucky people in Paris can now head over to the Sweatshop Cafe and sew away on one of the ten Singer sewing machines in the cafe for six euros for an hour - or buy a pass for longer projects. Tea, coffee, and pastries are extra. They also offer workshops on sewing, knitting and do-it-yourself fashion.

Next door you can enjoy the delights of Bob's Juice Bar serving up organic and natural breakfasts and lunches including what some feel are the best bagels in Paris.

Sweatshop, 13 rue Lucien Sampaix 75010 Paris; Tel: 09 787 71 54 61; Email: info@sweatshopparis.com; Metro: Jaques Bonsergent (Orange 5); Open: Tuesday to Friday from 1:00 pm to 9:00 pm,, Saturday and Sunday from 1:00 pm to 7:00 pm
Bob's Juice Bar, 15 rue Lucien Sampaix 75010 Paris; Metro: Jaques Bonsergent (Orange 5); Open: Mondays to Fridays from 7:30 am to 3:00pm
Bob's Kitchen, 74 rue des Gravilliers 75003 Paris; Tel: 952 551 166; Metro: Arts et Metiers (3 or 11); Open Monday to Friday 8:00 am to 3:00 pm, Sunday brunch from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm.

Cheap Bike Rental Programs Going Global!

In both my books - Green Earth Guide Traveling Naturally in France and Green Earth Guide Traveling Naturally in Spain - as well as this blog, I have highlighted the cheap and wonderful city bike rental programs in Paris, Lyon, Montpellier, Nice, Nantes, Barcelona and Seville. Now I am happy to report that a successful launch of a similar program in Montreal, Canada called BIXI, is being launched in Boston, Massachusetts, Minneapolis, Minnesota and Melbourne, Australia in June. Later in the summer they hope to be operational in London, England.

BIXI operates very much like the other established city biking programs. You can pay for a day, a month or a one year subscription which entitles you to bicycle use for thirty minutes at a time for free or pay a nominal fee for additional time. For 24-hour passes you will need to pay a refundable $250 deposit. Due to the harsh winters in Montreal, BIXI bikes are available from May to November 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

The Web site gives details of bike station locations, safety and prices. Happy peddling!

In and Out of Barcelona By Train

Barcelona and Madrid are the two main train and plane hubs in Spain. I have found myself living on either side of Barcelona the last two winters and so have used the Barcelona trains extensively. Below are a few tricks and tips I have learned that should be useful to travelers entering or leaving Barcelona by train. 

There are two train stations in Barcelona -  Estacio de Franca in Catalan (de Francia in Spanish) and Estacio Sants. Sants is the newer station with most of the train traffic including the high speed AVE.

Franca is the old station with marble floors and a grand feeling although much smaller than Sants and with fewer tracks. The overnight trains to Paris, Zurich and Milan leave from Franca. Franca has no stores or services to speak of except ticket windows, an information desk and rest rooms.

The bathrooms have been renovated since I wrote the Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally in Spain and now do have toilet paper and toilet seats, but take note and get your toilet paper on the way in as it is only in the entry of the bathroom, not in the stalls.  The sinks are automated all-in-one wash and dry and the stalls now don bright pink doors. 

If you have to wait or have a layover at Franca be prepared with food especially if you have luggage, as there is nothing to eat in the station- not even a newsstand - so be prepared with reading material as well. There used to be a large café/bar at one end of the station but that is closed for renovation with no indication of when it will reopen. The left luggage (consigna) has been closed for years at Franca due to security issues. 

The station is covered but open air, so while lovely in the warmer months, it can be chilly in the winter. In the evening the one heated room is where the information area is with seven or so comfortable chairs, usually filled with travelers waiting for the overnight trains to Europe which leave between 7:00 and 9:00pm.

In stark contrast the Barcelona Sants station is a new large complex complete with shops and food options, and a metro accessible from within the station. If you have luggage you don’t want to lug around, you can leave it at the Consigna (Left-Luggage) lockers at Sants. 

There is a convenient train that runs between the two stations for 1.40 (at writing time). You need to buy a specific ticket at one of the machines for the Rodalies (commuter) trains. The trip only takes twelve minutes between the stations and is definitely the fastest, easiest and cheapest means between the two. The trains run regularly - every fifteen minutes or so. 

To buy your tickets from Sants TO Franca - go to the machines down by tracks 13-14 in the Sants station. At the machine you can choose your language and then must search for your destination (Barcelona de Franca) which will be on the second page of options. At Sants you enter the tracks with your ticket via a turnstile much like the metro so it both gains you entry and validates the ticket.

At Franca there is a machine to the right of the ticket counter near to the security checkpoint. The same thing holds true here – buying your ticket from Franca TO Sants you will have to click on the yellow “other destinations” button to find Barcelona Sants in the middle of the second page of destination options. At Franca you MUST validate your ticket in one of the machines in the hallway where security is prior to boarding the train AND you will need your ticket to exit at Sants so hold onto it. 

If you have a lot of time between trains and are not too encumbered by luggage you can take the metro to the old part of the city and stroll through the streets and up Las Ramblas stopping to have a meal or snack. The fresh squeezed fruit juices at La Boqueria market are especially refreshing for travelers. If you are starting at Franca, I would take the metro one stop to Jaume 1 and then wind my way over to Las Ramblas through the back streets. From Sants, if you don’t want to bother switching metro lines, take the green line L3 to Liceu which will let you out right on Las Ramblas.

For more information about the overnight train see the post Dinner in Paris, Breakfast in Barcelona.

Local Goods and Fun on the Streets of Paris

I feel very comfortable in Paris- sort of like home -which must have something to do with my New York upbringing as it is certainly not due to the language which I barely speak and butcher shamefully. Paris is much prettier than Manhattan and more open as it lacks the tall buildings that hem in Manhattan. Good, fresh food is far more abundant, accessible and less “precious” than in Manhattan since the Parisians expect it. 
 
Littered with one darling café after the next, you could become paralyzed trying to decide what to try and where to sit in Paris. In most cases (not all) you cannot go wrong especially if you are just having a café or infusion (herbal tea). Truly one of my favorite things to do in Paris (and most cities) is walk. I love exploring and each time I am there try to take different streets.....finding new treasures all the time. Fun streets lined with local eats and other fun stores include Rue Montorgueil in the 1st, Rue Cler in the 7th, Rue des Deux Pont on the Ile Saint Louis in the 4th  and of course all the markets that dot the city on any given day. 

If you find yourself in the Latin Quarter on a Tuesday morning there is a small but excellent mixed market around the Maubert Metro stop in the 5th down the street from the organic Phyto Bar restaurant. Here you will find organic produce, some beautiful shawls and clothing (different from the common cheap pashminas and arab-style, keffiyeh scarves sold elsewhere) as well as cheeses, fish and other local products. 

And keep your eyes open for the truly delicious Kayser breads that are not to be missed! The baguettes are usually warm having come right out of the oven. Eric Kayser, a third-generation Parisian baker, is the brains behind the Mayson Kaiser bakeries, making bread from natural leavening using a special machine designed by Kayser to keep the leavening in a perfect state. In addition to amazing breads, you can also buy quiches, tarts and sandwiches at the fourteen stores in Paris (with other stores in Japan, Russia and the Ukraine). You can find Maison Kayser bakeries in most arrondissements. To avoid disappointment, check store location and hours on the website as some are closed on Mondays and others on Sundays. 

If you are visiting Paris in the winter you can ice skate outdoors in front of the Hôtel de Ville (4th arrondissement)- which many confuse for an actual hotel but is how the French refer to their City Hall. For 5 euros you can rent skates and enjoy the rink for free on Monday to Friday from 12pm-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 9am -10pm. This year the rink is open until March 6, 2010. Arrive at least one hour before closing otherwise you won’t get in. Outdoor skating is also available at Place Raoul Dautry near the rail station Gare Montparnasse in the 14th – this rink is only open until 8:00pm during the weekdays but has the same hours as the Hôtel de Ville rink on the weekends. 

Afterwards you can make your way to one of the many delightful cafes and have something delicious to warm you!

Always on the Hunt for Good Bread - Success in Valencia Spain!

While I have found some wonderful bakeries making traditional and artisanal breads in Paris, Barcelona, Barcelona again and Madrid (see posts), I had yet to find any such bread makers in Valencia.

While Valencia is dotted with bakeries, it suffers as does the rest of Spain from a shortage of what I would categorize as really good bread. Happily I discovered serendipitously a bakery just off the Plaza de la Reina that makes a large variety of artesano breads and pastries. Among their offerings are a Pan de Gallego made from wheat (trigo in Spanish) grown in Galicia, the region in northwestern Spain, and Espelta Ecologico made from organic spelt.

One friend of mine who is a bit of a bread connoisseur said after sampling the PanPan Gallego baguette, “Wow I haven’t had bread like that since……well, since I was in Paris.” Tall praise for PanPan. The counters overflowing with breads can be accessed all day during the week and on Saturday mornings, and PanPan could not be more convenient as it is right around the corner from the Plaza. PanPan Atelier, La Paz 1, 46003 Valencia; www.panpan.es; open Monday to Friday from 8:00 am to 9:00 pm, Saturday from 9:00 am to 2:00 pm.

Dinner in Paris, Breakfast in Barcelona

I have very fond memories of traveling by train as a child, especially overnight trains. White linen tablecloths with china and glassware in the dining cars, and “club cars” where I invariably met other children to play cards with or I-Spy as we stared out of the windows. My memories do not include gross bathrooms splattered with urine, nor miniscule compartments too small for luggage. Since I was smaller then it may be that indeed the compartments were tiny and I just didn’t notice, but I do believe the bathrooms were much cleaner. 

Train travel is still my preferred form of transport, although I will admit to being disappointed on many trains since I hold a high standard from my youth. Certainly a pet peeve of mine is the condition and lack of toilets, especially on overnight trains. Why are they gross now and not forty years ago? People frequented them just as much I am sure.

That said I am happy to report that the overnight train between Paris and Barcelona (and Madrid) is still alive and busy even with dirt-cheap flights available on low-cost airlines. I suspect that if you can afford to travel in Grand Class or First class that the compartment size and toilet facilities are better than those in tourist class.

A word of warning, if you are traveling in tourist class you will be four people to a “room”, which is the size of a large closet. Whoever designed these train cars forgot that people traveling twelve hours or more between major cities might be accompanied with large luggage. There is no luggage storage in the “rooms” or on the train car, so the four people must navigate around the luggage that takes up what limited space there is between the fold-down beds. The toilets are abysmal and inevitably at least one ends up unusable - flooded or plugged.

You might think that these complaints would make it so that I would never travel by overnight train. Not so. I still love the train the best, but simply pine for a slightly more comfortable experience. 

The Paris Barcelona route (there is a separate Paris-Madrid route) runs every night, and the timing of it is such that you can have dinner in Paris, albeit a not too late dinner, and breakfast in Barcelona. I did just that, having gone to Paris for the weekend. I had an early dinner at a favorite organic foods restaurant in the St. Germain area of Paris consisting of a wonderful salad, and then rosemary roasted organic chicken leg with vegetables. Fortunately the Phtyo-Bar is open every day from noon to 11:30 pm so it doesn’t matter what day you are traveling. My meal was followed by a lovely stroll along the Seine and by Notre Dame, then onto the Metro to take me to Gare Paris-Austerlitz for the 8:30 pm (20:30) train to Barcelona. Gare Austerlitz is not far from the Paris Grand Mosque and that is a wonderful place to have tea.

For novices to overnight train travel, you may be surprised when the steward asks you to hand over not only your ticket but also your passport or residence card - this is to avoid having to wake everyone up at 5 am for the border check. As unnerving as it is to hand over your most significant form of identification, everyone does it and there never seems to be a problem.

The train arrives at Barcelona Estacio de Franca at 8:24 am - or close to then. If Barcelona is merely a layover you will likely have to make your way to the other train station in Barcelona, Estacio Sants -- this can be done by train or metro (metro stop is the yellow line Barceloneta around the corner from the train station -take one stop to Jaume 1 for the old part).

In any case, if you are eager for breakfast you can walk or take the metro to the old part of Barcelona - El Raval and Barri Gotic areas. Stroll through La Boqueria market and pick up some delicious fresh pressed fruit juice - there is a wide variety to choose from: Kiwi, Coconut, Mango (my favorite), orange, strawberry, and more.

There are any number of cafes and restaurants to eat at near or along Las Ramblas. A fun and airy restaurant with outdoor seating just one block west of Las Ramblas, north of La Boqueria is Bar Lobo. Here you can order organic coffee or tea, fresh fruit, juices and  smoothies, as well as the “Jane Fonda” breakfast (yogurt, muesli, fruit and organic tea), the “Churchill” (bacon, eggs & café con leche (coffee with milk)), or little sandwiches made on baguette bread. The restaurant has the feel of a loft and much of the food prep is done in the center so visible to all patrons. Bar Lobo, c/ Xucla 8 (on the corner of c/ Pintor Fortuny), Barcelona; open Monday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm.

If you are not in the mood for a full on breakfast you can walk three blocks west on Pintor Fortuny and then up the street Doctor Dou to the Reykjavik Bakery - see Searching for Good Breads post. If you want non-bakery goods you can cross the street and find one of the Veritas natural food stores with produce and other groceries. Barcelona Reykjavik Bakery, Doctor Dou, 12 (Raval), open Monday to Saturday 10:00 am to 9:30 pm.

If you are indeed continuing on to Estacio Sants you can pick up the green line metro at Liceu (no switching) on Las Ramblas or the red line at Plaza Catalunya (you will need to switch at Espanya for the green line).

And enjoy being able to have dinner in Paris and breakfast in Barcelona!

Bon appetit, ¡buen apetito!

A Las Ramblas note: If you take pictures of any of the Living Statues along Las Ramblas please leave money in their containers - this is how they earn their living and some will chase you down if you don’t.

Toilets and Traveling

I consider myself relatively easy going about toilets and bathroom facilities. That is I have gone backwoods camping and once lived with nothing more than an outhouse for almost four years. So it is not that I require luxury. However, when traveling I am amazed at the state of some toilettes.

I have gotten used to traveling with a package of tissues as I often come upon toilets without any toilet paper – and for that matter sometimes with no seat or even toilet! In some Italian, French and Spanish public toilets you will find the toilet paper in a common hallway, not in the stalls, and mere holes in the floor as toilets. These are not so bad as long as you have your squatting muscles in shape and have remembered to gather your toilet paper prior to entering your stall.

It is the urine saturated sticky floors, with used paper and towels stuck in various places, and unflushed toilets full of merde that send me in to winces and shivers. No one is caring for these bathrooms. 

So when I come upon toilets where you have to pay, and others are grumbling about the audacity of charging for urination, I am delighted to find clean, well-tended bathrooms. I would rather piss on the grass or by a tree anytime than go into the gross, urine and feces saturated cesspools that are often available.

In Spain most toilets are free, or free to customers. Do not be surprised, especially in southern areas, if you see people (admittedly usually men) peeing in the street, or by a dumpster or park tree. I would not recommend this since it only adds to the eau-de-pee often wafting from certain side streets.

I am told that in Paris this will get you a hefty fine. Fortunately in France you have a selection of toilettes - both free and fee. Many of the train station bathrooms charge .50 to 1 euro for entry. You can pay more for a shower if you are in need.

In London, many train stations charge for toilet use, but free ones can be found at most department stores and at the Covent Garden Market. 

Not surprisingly, Swiss bathrooms are notoriously clean. At the Zurich main train station you pay 2 Swiss francs for the toilets, but let me tell you it is worth it – you could perform surgery in those restrooms of gleaming marble. In Germany toilets also are generally very clean.

I am afraid that Italy does not share the same reputation as Switzerland and Germany, in fact quite the opposite. But look for fee-to-pee toilets at train stations, and also make sure you make use of the facilities at any cafe or museum you are patronizing.

In most European countries you can get by with asking for the toilette or WC. In Spain you will also see signs for Aseo. 

There are many helpful and funny links in cyberspace about bathrooms. A very comprehensive site is the Bathroom Diaries where you can search over 120 countries for bathroom locations and commentary - WOW! 

Visitors to Paris may want to part with 3 euros and download the Paris Pause Pipi Guide offering a useful guide to the public Sanisettes in Paris.There are also numerous links to Paris specific toilets with two especially good ones at Slow Travel and Colleen's Paris.

And for those who want to be prepared no matter what, you can try the new German invention Roadbag pocket urinal for men or the Ladybag  for women.

Natural Health & Beauty in the City of Lights & Love

Paris is awash with sources of natural health and beauty products. Health food stores large and small carry various lines of personal care products made in France and other European countries. In the Green Earth Guide to France you can find Web sites for all the major health food stores in Paris and search for locations near to your accommodations. Some appealing specialty shops and salons are listed here for your next Parisian beauty excursion.

Anthyllide carries a wide range of natural health and beauty products including high quality essential oils, homeopathic and herbal remedies, Hildegard de Bingen medicinals, and natural body care such as Dr. Hauschka, Lavera, Sante and other natural brands. Anthyllide, 28, rue du Pont Louis Philippe, 75004 Paris; Tel: 140 299 126; Web: www.anthyllide.com; Metro: Hotel de Ville or St. Paul; Open Monday 2:00pm to 7:00, Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm.

Couleur Caramel is dedicated to one hundred percent natural make-up and cosmetics. They use natural ingredients as well as design their packaging with recycled materials. Their organic skin care line comes in refillable! containers! available in 50 and 15 ml bottles. Couleur Caramel is striving for Ecocert and Cosmebio certifications on all, not just some, of their products by the end of 2009. Sold in health food stores and specialty stores throughout Paris and France, as well as in their two “Maquillage Caffès” (make-up café’s) in Paris: Couleur Caramel, 8, rue Nicolas Flamel, 75004; Tel: 148 040 294; Metro: Chatelet; and, 10, rue Jean Du Bellay, 75004; Tel: 140 460 574; Metro: Pont-Marie; Web: http://www.couleur-caramel.com

On rue des Rosiers amidst the Jewish baked goods you will find one of three Paris Florame boutiques filled with their signature essential oils and body care products. Florame, 15 rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris; Web: http://www.florame.com/nosboutiques-i-33.html. Open every day, Sunday and Monday from 12:00 to 2:30 pm/ 3:00 to 7:00 pm, and Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 am to 2:30 pm/ 3:00 to 7:00 pm.

And for those looking to color their hair au naturel, L’Atelier des Elfes offers hair coloring using 100% plant-based colorants. They also do Ayurvedic hair and head massages. L’Atelier is dedicated to honoring your hair and the environment – how refreshing! L’Atelier des Elfes, 3 rue Alphonse Daudet, 75014 Paris; Tel: 130 882 254 or 681 638 275; Web: www.latelierdeselfes.fr; Metro: Alesia.

Noshing (and more) in Paris - The Jewish Neighborhood in Marais

If you are wondering what to do on a Sunday in Paris and are in the mood for food, plenty of people, and shopping (some upscale), make your way to the Jewish section of the 4th arrondissement between the metro stops St. Paul and Hotel de Ville. If you have purchased the indispensable red Paris Classique par Arrondissements at a newsstand (about 10 Euros and HIGHLY recommended) you will find the rue des Rosiers and some nearby streets marked by blue Stars of David on the maps flagging the one hundred plus year old Jewish neighborhood. For historical information about this neighborhood you can find interesting information by Toni Kamins, author of The Complete Jewish Guide to France, at the link for the Marais neighborhood in Paris.

I stumbled upon this bustling neighborhood when I took a wrong turn for the Mémorial de la Shoah, a museum and memorial dedicated to the Jewish genocide of World War II. Shoah means catastrophe in Hebrew and is the term used in France for the Holocaust. The memorial is powerful and devastating, with a remembering wall containing 76,000 names of Jews deported from France, extensive archives from the period including the yellow stars that Jews were forced to sew onto their clothes, and the crypt, a symbolic tomb for the six million Jews killed. The crypt contains the ashes of victims from eight concentration camps and ghettos mixed with soil imported from Israel. When I entered the crypt tears welled up in my eyes before I even had read what lay there. The Mémorial de la Shoah is about learning, remembering and honoring. It is a good idea to visit the Memorial with a before or after walk through the lively and flourishing Jewish neighborhood a few blocks away to see that in spite of such horrors and persecution, people, traditions and beliefs can persevere.

I have not seen so many Jewish establishments since I was a kid growing up in New York City. Rue des Rosiers is a wonderful site with long lines out of bakeries and delis filled with challah, rugelah, hamentaschen, bagels and much more “gastronomie Yiddish.” Definitely arrive hungry if you like this kind of fare as it will be a never-ending feast from one store to the next.

Bon Appetit, Es gezunterheyt! עס געזונטערהײט

Good Bread Trails in Paris

Paris and bread - well what can I say? While I struggle to search out the truly artisan and specialty breads in Spain, France, particularly Paris, is teeming with divine breads.

I surveyed some of the notable boulangeries (bakeries) on my last trip to Paris, seeking out breads made on site in local bakeries with slow leavening which enhances the enzymes, aroma, and taste of bread. Listed here are just a few of the numerous possibilities in Paris -- all are delicious. You can do a taste testing tour and decide which are your personal favorites.

Housed in a bakery from 1889 with original furniture and fixtures, fashion executive turned baker, Christophe Vasseur produces original and traditional breads and pastries at Du Pain et Des Idees. From slowly prepared sourdough baguettes to more exotic orange blossom brioche and chocolate-pistaschio rolls, Du Pain et Des Idees is full of delectable treats. Du Pain et Des Idees, 34 rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris; Tel: 142 404 452; Web: www.dupainetdesidees.com; Metro: Jacques Bonsergent. Bikers take note: There are four Velib bike stations close by. Open Monday to Friday from 6:45 am to 8:00 pm.

La Moulin de la Vierge uses stone-ground organic flours and traditional leavening for their bread in their four stores in Paris in the 7th, 14th, 15th, and 17th arrondissements; open 7:30 am to 8:00pm, see web site www.lemoulindelavierge.com for store locations.

Boulanger de Monge makes fourteen different breads using organic flour and grains including outstanding sourdough loaves. They also make fifteen traditional French breads (not organic), as well as fine pastries. Boulanger de Monge, 123 rue Monge, 75005 Paris; Tel: 143 375 420; open Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 am to 8:30 pm; Metro: Place Monge.

The Poilane bakeries use wood-fired ovens making breads with sourdough starter and French sea salt since 1932. There are two bakeries in Paris in the 6th and 15th arrondissements. Poilane, 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris; Tel: 145 484 259; Web: www.poilane.fr; open Monday to Saturday from 7:15 am to 8:15 pm; Metro: Vaneau or Saint-Placide

Philippe Gosselin has won prestigious awards for his baguettes, and makes unusual pastries including rose and pistachio éclairs. With three stores in Paris you can find at least one open on any day of the week. Philippe Gosselin, 125 rue St-Honore, 75001 Paris; Tel: 145 080 359; open Sunday to Friday (closed Saturday) from 7:00 am to 8:00pm; Metro: Louvre-Rivoli. Also a location a few blocks from the Musee D’Orsay at 258 Blvd St. Germain, 75007 Paris; Metro: Solferino; Open: Monday to Friday from 7:00 am to 8:00 pm, Saturday from 7:30 am to 7:30 pm. And one at 28 rue Caumartin, 75009 Paris; open Monday to Friday (closed weekends) from 7:00 am to 8:00 pm; Metro: Havre-Caumartin.

In 2006 Cohier’s baguette was voted the best in Paris, and many still believe it is the best in the city. In addition to the award winning baguettes, you can find pastries and delights at this forty-year-old bakery. Jean-Pierre Cohier, 270 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, Metro: Ternes.

Breakfasts at Coquelicot start at 3.90 euros up to full on brunch for almost 20 euros with fresh baked goods, freshly squeezed orange juice, Le Bol de Café Noir or au Lait, and other divine things. Indoor and outdoor seating available at this delightful bakery and restaurant. Coquelicot, 24 rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris; Tel: 146 061 877; Web: www.coquelicot-montmartre.com/intro.htm; Metro: Absesses

Eric Kayser, a third-generation Parisian baker, is the brains behind the Mayson Kaiser bakeries, making bread from natural leavening using a special machine designed by Kayser to keep the leavening in a perfect state. In addition to amazing breads, you can also buy quiches, tarts and sandwiches at the fourteen stores in Paris (with other stores in Japan, Russia and the Ukraine). You can find Maison Kayser bakeries in most arrondissements. To avoid disappointment, check store location and hours on the website as some are closed on Mondays and others on Sundays. Mayson Kaiser Web site: www.maison-kayser.com

La Boulangerie de Papa is a bakery and tea-salon offering delicious breads, sandwiches, and beverages to warm you close to Notre Dame a few blocks from the Shakespeare & Co. bookstore and near the Saint Michel metro stop. Twenty-two special breads made fresh daily on site including delicious sourdough baguette. La Boulangerie de Papa, 1 rue de la Harpe, 75005 Paris; Tel: 143 546 616; Web: http://www.groupe-bertrand.com/boulangerie.php; open every day from 6:30 am to midnight

Paris Second Hand with a Heart

Emmaus International is a non-profit organization started by a French man, Abbe Pierre, sixty years ago to defend what he considered to be fundamental human rights and to fight against the causes of poverty. Emmaus now boasts 306 groups in 36 countries around the world working to “serve those that suffer most.”

To help fund their array of programs, the French organization has five stores throughout Paris selling second hand goods, the proceeds of which go to support Emmaus’s work around the world. You can find fabulous items in the stores at prices that will not break the bank and are down right cheap for Paris.

I am still kicking myself for not purchasing a fantastic 5-Euro belt for my daughter as a Christmas present. The store was not open yet and I had places to go. I thought I would return, but my wanderings led me elsewhere. Oh well, I can only hope someone else found it and is enjoying it, as well as feeling good about supporting desperately needed global humanitarian work.

Next time you are in Paris and feel the urge to shop find an Emmaus Boutique and shop guilt-free with heart.

See specific store locations and hours in the picture at left.

http://emmaus-international.org

www.emmaus-france.org

Organic Eats in Paris and a Little Extra

Last weekend I was in Paris for a couple of days and made a ritual visit to the wonderful Shakespeare & Co landmark English bookstore near the Notre Dame Cathedral. Packed full of books and shoppers on a blustery Saturday afternoon, I was overjoyed to find they had multiple copies of Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally In France amidst their France-focused travel section, buried to the right of the door. This was not completely altruistic on their part as I do mention them in the book in text and with a photo, but exciting none-the-less to have the book being sold in Paris! Ooh la la.

Paris was awash with people strolling, shopping and eating. I went to some favorite organic places and found a few new ones. A favorite of mine is the Phyto-Bar restaurant on Boulevard Saint-Germain, considered to be the first organic restaurant in Paris. I had dinner here with refreshing fresh juice, a splendid salad, as well as a roasted organic chicken leg with rosemary potatoes....yum. Full information is listed in the Green Earth Guide.

The rest of my stops were for samplings as I cannot eat five full meals a day no matter how delicious and tempting they may be. For organic crepes try the Breizh Café in the lovely quartier Marais. Breizh serves a variety of crepes made from organic flour and other specialties from the Brittany region. Breizh Cafe, 109 rue Vielle du Temple, 75003 Paris; Tel: 01 42 72 1377; www.breizhcafe.com. The best metro stop is St Sebastien Froissard.

Down the street from the Breizh, you will find the Pink Flamingo, serving fresh pizza made daily with organic flour, sea salt from France, and toppings from local markets. The Pink Flamingo is open every day - lucky you! Monday to Friday from 12:00 to 3:00pm/7:00 to 11:30pm, Saturday and Sunday from 12:00 to 4:00pm/7:00 to 11:30pm. The Pink Flamingo has two locations in Paris, this one is at 105 rue Vielle du Temple, 75003 Paris; Web: www.pinkflamingopizza.com

For flower fans, you will enjoy the creative L’Artisan Fleuriste, also on the same street, offering unusual and special plants and arrangements - and you have to love their company car! L’Artisan Fleuriste, 95 rue Vielle du Temple, 75003 Paris; Web: www.artisanfleuriste.fr

Green and Groovy Eats in Paris

While abundant with eating options, large cities can be overwhelming when you are looking for quality food, and particularly anything special like natural & organic foods, vegetarian, or good local food. Here are some wonderful local, green and groovy places to eat and drink in the city of lights and love for all you travelers to Paris.

For a local dinner - but not for vegetarians - try Le Petit Canard (Canard means Duck). This is where locals go to eat and while they have some variety on the menu (like a salad with goat cheese), it does remind me of the old Dudley Moore/Peter Cook comedy routine about the Frog and Peach Restaurant, where you can order “Frog a la Peche”, or “Peche a la Frog”, because at Le Petit Canard it is all about duck! But you will be in heaven if you like duck. Le Petit Canard, 19, rue Henry-Monnier, 75009 Paris; Tel: 01 49 70 0795; open 7pm to 2 am every day for dinner. Metros: Pigalle or St Georges a few blocks from the rue des Martyrs within walking distance of Sacre Couer.

For organic crepes try the Breizh Café in the quartier Marais - not to be missed. Breizh Cafe, 109 rue Vielle du Temple, 75003 Paris; Tel: 01 42 72 1377; Web: www.breizhcafe.com; Metro: St Sebastien Froissard.

The Gentle Gourmet~The Vegan Place in Paris, is a bed & breakfast with a restaurant serving vegan, local and organic foods in the 16th arrondissement. A room with vegan breakfast is 130 Euros/night for one person, 155 Euros/night for two people. Dinner is 50 Euros/person, and Sunday brunch is 25 Euros/person. They are open seven days a week and you need to book ahead for all meals. Rooms have wifi and are stocked with organic terry bathrobes. The Gentle Gourmet also offers gourmet vegan cooking classes for those wanting to expand their cuisine repertoire. The Gentle Gourmet, is on Rue Duret between Avenue Foch and the Avenue de la Grande Armee, a few minutes from the Arc de Triomphe; The Gentle Gourmet, 21, Rue Duret, 75116 Paris; 0145 00 4655; Email: gentlegourmetbandb@gmail.com; Web: www.gentlegourmetbandb.com; Metro: Argentine.

For fabulous local and natural food and wine in Paris, explore the excellent web site at More Than Organic.  This link will bring you to the page where you can find wine shops, restaurants, bistros and wine bars serving natural wines and local foods. The web site offers information about wines and wine-making as well.  

La Cremerie is a wine store and bar specializing in natural wines, a couple of blocks north of the Luxembourg Gardens. Housed in an old creamery - hence the name - it has been a wine store for sixty years. La Cremerie, 9, rue des Quatre Vents, 75006 Paris; Tel: 01 43 549 930; Metro: Odeon; open 10:30 am to 10:00 pm Tuesday to Saturday with special times for tastings; Web site: http://www.lacremerie.fr

And as I mentioned in my post An Eco Saturday in Paris, the Tearoom at the Grand Mosque is a delightful way to spend some down time sipping fresh mint tea in the delightful blue and white courtyard. The Tea Room is open seven days a week from 9:00am until 11:30pm. Grand Mosque, 39 rue Geoffrey Saint-Hilaire, 75005 Paris; Web: http://www.la-mosquee.com

Bon appétit!

An Eco Saturday in Paris

Book in at the Hotel de la Porte Dorée, a family run hotel with some green amenities, on avenue Daumesnil in the 12th arrondissement, on the east side of the city, steps away from the Port Dorée metro and bus stops, making the city sites easily accessible. Make sure you are equipped with a map of Paris and the metro and/or bus lines.

The Organic Market Brancusi (Marche Biologique Brancusi) is held Saturday mornings from 9:00 am to 3:00pm. To get there take the purple #8 Metro line from Port Dorée towards Richelieu for two stops to Daumesnil. Switch to the green #6 line towards Charles de Gaulle Etoile. Take that twelve stops to the Edgar Quinet stop and walk down rue de Gaite or through the Montparnasse Cemetery to du Maine Avenue. Rue R.J. Zay off of du Maine will bring you to Place Constantin where you will find the Marche Biologique Brancusi. The teal #13 metro stop, Gaite is closer, but not worth the switching coming from Port Dorée.

For bikers, there is a Paris Vélib bike station at 1 Place Edouard Renard a couple of blocks from the Hotel. Bike to the Market and there is a Vélib station at 90 Ave. du Maine, one to two blocks from the market, near the Gaité Metro stop. For more Vélib information, visit their website for locating stations all over Paris.

Once you have explored the market and eaten some delicious food, you can walk to Park George Brassens, or rent a Vélib bike (there are two Vélib stations along the park – one is Station # 15046, 42 rue des Morillons), where book lovers will particularly enjoy the secondhand and antique book market held in an old horse market pavilion in the Parc on rue des Morillons in the 15th arrondissement of Paris (Métro: Convention). The Parc has vineyards, beehives, 510 rose bushes, walking paths, and more. The book market, held on Saturdays and Sundays from 9am to 6pm, has over 200 participating booksellers, 68 of which rotate through each weekend.

After the Parc and book market you can bike or Metro to the St. Germain neighborhood, a lively area full of fun stores and eats, making your way towards any number of sites – Notre Dame Cathedral, the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay – to name a few. If you are planning on one of the museums, you are better off planning in advance for those and purchasing your tickets Online to avoid the crowded entry lines.
You can eat lunch at the first all-organic bar and restaurant in Paris, Phyto Bar, serving terrific organic food. They offer an array of fresh squeezed juices—the grapefruit-kiwi is an especially refreshing combination. The seaweed “caviar,” made with a variety of greens from the sea, is highly recommended. Next door, you will find La Nature a Paris Boutique, their sister store, a tiny, jam-packed health food shop. (Phyto Bar Restaurant and Bar, 47 Boulevard Saint-Germain; Tel: 01 44 07 3699.) The Phtyo Bar Restaurant is about five blocks along rue Monge from the Seine River and the bridge across to the Notre Dame Cathedral. In nice weather there will be book, souvenir and art vendors along the Seine.

If you need a rest after your walking, biking and sightseeing, you can bus, bike or metro back to the Hotel.

Once you are refreshed, the evening offers a number possibilities. One of my favorite Paris excursions is to listen to the nuns sing vespers at the Sacre Couer Basilica – the magic and beauty of their voices can be enjoyed by all. They begin at 6pm and sing for about thirty minutes.

From the hotel you can get to Sacre Couer a few ways. By bus take the #46 from Porte Dorée to the final stop of Gare du Nord (a large train station). From there you could walk all the way, or walk to the Funicular that goes up the hill to the basilica. If you want to go by Metro, you want to be on the #2 blue line. Take the #8 purple line from Porte Dorée two stops to Daumesnil, change to the #6 green line to Nation. At Nation get onto the #2 blue line and take that to Anvers. Here you will be quite close to the funicular, which you can either take, or simply walk up the steep steps.

If you want to stay closer to “home” in the evening, try a delightful experience at the Grand Mosque, serving tea and more. For a truly delicious experience you can wind down with a Hammam steam bath and massage at the Mosque. The Tea room is open seven days a week from 9:00am until 11:30pm, so you can enjoy this almost anytime of day. Check the website for specifics about the Hammam since they have different days for men and women. The Hammam is open until 9:00pm. To reach the mosque by metro from the hotel either get onto the purple #8 line at Porte Dorée for two stops to the Green #6 at Daumesnil (or walk to the Daumesnil stop). Take the Green #6 six stops to Place d’Italie and switch to the orange #5 for two stops to Saint Marcel. Walk two blocks up rue Geoffrey St-Hilaire toward the Jardin des Plantes (worth a stroll and visit on its own), and the Grand Mosque. The Tea room and Hammam entrances are on rue Geoffrey.

Lastly, if you are in Paris during July and August, there are outdoor film screenings in La Villette Park showing at 9:00pm most nights. But, if you decide to enjoy a Hammam Steam bath on Saturday evening, you can go to the movies Sunday night instead.

Traveling Naturally Saturday in Paris:
• Organic Brancusi Market
• Used and antique book fair in Parc George Bressans
• St Germain neighborhood\Notre Dame Cathedral (with possible visits to the Louvre or Musee d’Orsay)
• Lunch at PhytoBar Organic Restaurant
• Return to Hotel for Rest
Evening Options:
• Sacre Couer Basilica Vespers 6pm
• Tea and/or Hammam Bath and Massage at the Grand Mosque
• La Villette Park outdoor movie screenings in July and August only, at 9:00pm most nights (http://www.villette.com/fr/parc-villette-agenda/)