The Magic of Lourmarin

I started what would be an almost perfect day unwrapping my Banon cheese. This is divine stuff – like brie, but no bite. I had this with the last of my rose-smoked salmon on my moist sans-gluten bread – pure heaven.
I got on the bus to Lourmarin - where I need to point out for the rest of the story – I held the bus schedule up to the bus driver so there could be no confusion that I was going to Lourmarin and paid for my ticket (you buy your tickets on the buses here). The bus made stops in a number of cute and interesting villages. I looked at my watch and knew we must be approaching Lourmarin. Sure enough – I saw the road sign and the bus turned and headed up a hill, which I presumed was into Lourmarin as the street sign said the name of one of the streets I was to look for. I disembarked and the driver gave me a broad smile and waved. I looked around for the tourist information office to get a map. I started following the signs but they seemed to be sending me much farther than what I had understood would be the case. I found myself in a maze of tiny streets and by some miracle arrived at the tourist office. A friendly woman greeted me and I asked for a map. She said, “For here?” and I said, “Yes, for Lourmarin.” A perplexed look crossed her face and she said, “This is Lauris.” Well you can imagine that the “merde” was next!
I had gotten off at the wrong damn village and the bus driver must have chuckled about this the rest of his day. I was trying to get to Lourmarin for their morning market which closes at 1pm and then meet some friends who run a B&B there for lunch. It was now 11:40. The taxi would take 10 minutes to arrive if I was lucky and set me back 12 euros. I decided to hoof the 5km to Lourmarin.
The woman was a little surprised by my choice but showed me on the map which road to take to the main road to Lourmarin and off I went. I tried not to be too cranky about this unexpected hike and instead enjoy the sunny morning as sweat poured down my torso.
I arrived in Lourmarin and found the market with about 20 minutes to spare. I bought incredible, freshly made tapenade, and an olive marmalade – out of this world (the vendor was offering me samples of every delectable item he had.)
I wound my way through the exquisite old stone village and found my friends – just as they were giving up on me.
We ate a delicious lunch of Aoli – a traditional Provencal dish with cooked vegetables and fish served with fresh garlic mayonnaise - some local red wine, and lots of talking as I had not had a full conversation with anyone since I left Switzerland.
After lunch I toured the beautiful and very special Les Olivettes Bed and Breakfast villa with individual apartments. For pictures see the website: www.olivettes.com . Les Olivettes is within walking distance of the village center, but is across the main road and has lovely grounds filled with gardens and olive trees – hence the name. In fact, you can come for your stay during olive harvest time and help pick the olives. Les Olivettes is not a budget accommodation, but rather a reasonably priced luxury accommodation, beautifully appointed.
My generous hosts then took me on a tour of two smaller, but equally magnificent nearby villages – Cucuron and Vangines – both filled with old stone buildings and much charm. On the drive back to Avignon we took the road through the Luberon, passing the Chateau Canorgue (Rte de Pont Julien, Bonnieux, Vaucluse), an organic and biodynamic vineyard.
A # 10 of a day even with getting off in the wrong town.

A little more Avignon

The cumulative travel effects hit me Thursday and I was tired all day, but that did not curtail my expeditions. I went to the daily morning covered Les Halles market which has one Bio stall crammed with an assortment of local and organic products. I found two more tiny health food stores and walked to the larger Biocoop (5 Rte de Lyon)which is beyond the old city gate by the university. This was a full-on health food store with everything you could want.
I had a picnic lunch in the Place de Pie which is full of cafés, but I sat on a cement stump and ate my sans-gluten bread with bio goat cheese and bio smoked salmon (smoked with Roses) one of the most incredible taste sensations I have ever had. I have noticed a lot of organic salmon here – far more than on the east coast of the United States. The stores here all close at lunch for nourishment and rest – the only things open are the cafes and restaurants. So after my lunch I made like a French-person and had a lie-down back at the hotel.
The sun had warmed things up so once rested I went out to the Palais des Papes – Avignon’s largest tourist attraction – an impressive fortress dating from when the Pope fled Italy and took up residence here in the 14th century. This was followed by a walk through the adjacent park – the highest spot in Avignon – and down to a café for a decaf espresso.
I stopped by Vincent’s for another delicious Italian bio orange and a bit more Avignon history. I saw the old synagogue where the Jews being persecuted in France were offered protection by the pope – there’s a story (see Parting Thoughts 2/1/08 post). Then I ended up walking what seemed like miles to the last health food store I would try to conquer in Avignon– Eco de la Terre – another full-service health food store.

More Avignon Discoveries

My further wanderings in Avignon have turned up all sorts of delights. The Shakespeare Bookstore ( 155, rue de la Carreterie) by the Avignon University is filled with used English-language books – great if you are in a pinch for a travel guide, or any kind of reading from thriller to philosophy.

I discovered Vincent – the friendly owner of Le Fruitier de Saint Agricol (27 rue Saint Agricol). You can see their wonderful array of local and bio foods at: http://www.lefruitier.com . This was serendipitous. I had just stopped because I noticed his enticing oranges were marked “bio”. Little did I realize what I would find inside - organic and local products of the highest quality. Vincent offered me tastes of various delectable products and lots of information about Avignon and the production of his offerings. He even had heard of Vermont (a rarity here as most people wonder what state it is in) since he had friends who lived in Quebec for a while and vacationed in Vermont. I purchased not only the orange I came in for but also locally made macaroons, organic sheep yogurt flavored with lemon, and a round of the famous Banon cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves. I promised Vincent I would be back for more.
As I walked back to the hostel, people were starting to head home from work, many on foot and bikes, most with fresh baguettes in hand. French women ride their bikes in their high heels – it is fantastic!

Moving Backward - Missed Nice

I realized that with all the excitement in Marseille I forgot to finish my entries for Nice. When I arrived in Nice I was not smitten with it but after three days I was in love with it. After my first day of wonderful doings, I woke on Monday and went to the health food store right around the corner from the Nice hostel, one of the French La Vie Claire stores, which had a large selection of gluten-free foods including palmiers, a favorite pastry of mine since childhood and one I was regretting not being able to eat while in France. Well I got my chance thanks to the Valpiform company and their sans-gluten mini palmiers. I also purchased bio sheep’s milk yogurt with chestnuts (delicious) .
I went in search of the Bio & Cie vegetarian and bio restaurant– see picture – and ate a large salad there for lunch later in the day. Bio & Cie is small with about 12 little tables, but was plenty busy.
I wandered through the antiques market and saw a few fun and wonderful things, but most were priced out of my range. See picture of Chantelle and notice lamp placement ☺
Then took a bus to the Chagall Museum – a MUST for any Chagall lover – and for that matter anyone. Breathtaking, huge paintings depicting scenes from the bible, as well as some of his earlier, smaller paintings are spread out through the airy and light museum dedicated to Chagall’s work. I would post the photographs that I was allowed to take, but web posting is not allowed so you will have go to Nice yourself to experience this glory.

After lunch I took a regional bus to Grasse – perfume center of the world. Grasse itself is not much to write home about. I did go to both the Molinard and Fragonard Perfume exhibits. Fragonard’s is extensive with an array of perfume artifacts dating back to ancient Egypt, the Orient, and Europe – worthwhile for any one interested in the history of scent and the origins of the perfume industry – which up until World War II was based on natural plants as the sources for perfumes.

My last day in Nice I found a larger health food store – Biocoop – another French chain of health food stores – located where the “real” people live. I bought a heart shaped mini wheel of bio sheep cheese “Coeur de Brebis Bio” to eat for lunch on the beach. On my way, I checked out the Marche de Puces – the second-hand market. This was my only real disappointment in Nice. It is in a makeshift covered building with a handful of stalls. Most of the vendors had been at the larger, outdoor antiques market on Monday – and these were not the vendors with the best stuff – to me it was overpriced and under-quality – no bargains to be had for sure.
My last hours in Nice were spent on the rocky Nice beach. The water was especially turquoise – see picture – and there were many beach worshippers enjoying the sun and water. I ate my French picnic and savored the moment. Then onto Marseille having no clue what was in store for me.